the ch!cktionary

    15 May 2009

    Noodle City: Hometown Favorite For Vietnamese

    Whenever I manage a trek back home, I always make sure at least one meal I enjoy is Vietnamese. The only Vietnamese place in Harvard Square is Le’s, where the dishes are pitifully flavorless. I’ve heard good things about Xinh Xinh in Chinatown but I’ve yet to make the trip. (And I don’t think trendier fare like Pho Republique counts in terms of authenticity.) So with fours years in Boston under my belt, I’ve only had a handful of Vietnamese meals there.

    When I visited Vietnam last summer, I was pleasantly surprised that the food tasted exactly the way it did at restaurants back home in Southern California. No doubt this is because of the large numbers of Vietnamese immigrants in the area. In high school, I frequently went to Noodle City in Alhambra. The restaurant changed owners sometime in the past year and renamed itself “New Noodle City”. Creative, eh? I’ve heard rumors that the food hasn’t been as good since, and I remember being unimpressed when I ate there during my Christmas trip home.


    Broken rice with charbroiled pork


    Egg rolls with vegetables

    Luckily, it turns out the old establishment has set up shop in Monterey Park. Same menu, same waitstaff, and from what my tongue can recall, same chef. I went there last night and left as satisfied as expected. I don’t want to overemphasize its merits; there’s tons of great Vietnamese to be had in the San Gabriel Valley, after all. Noodle City, however, has nostalgic value for me, and with limited time (and limited meals!), I like to go back to what I know I can count on.

    Noodle City
    848 East Garvey Avenue
    Monterey Park, CA 91755
    (626) 573-3718

    9 May 2009

    Burtons Grill: $3.95 Small Plates

    On my quest to uncover bargain eats about town, I headed to Burtons Grill last week to check out the restaurant’s After-Work Recession Buster menu (4-7pm daily), which includes small plates like sliders, lettuce wraps, jumbo shrimp, and goat cheese salad. Though some items were hit or miss, there’s no harm in trying out dishes you wouldn’t normally order at a price that nice. And unlike Happy Hour items at other spots around town (Masa comes to mind), each plate is actually a meal in itself so you’re not dealing with finger food either.

    The restaurant comped the small plates, so I tried an array of them. By far, the tenderloin sliders (two per plate) were the best deal of the specials. Mini-hamburger buns sandwich shredded tenderloin meat, provolone cheese, and tartar sauce, alongside a generous side of fries. You might not be so keen on tartar sauce in your burger, but trust me, it won’t taste like a fish sandwich. I was less impressd with the more ethnic dishes. From what I could tell, the Thai chicken lettuce wraps (two per order) were merely Thai in name. Despite credible ingredients like water chestnuts and baby corn, I found the dish far too bland, perhaps because the “sweet n spicy” sauce is about as spicy as you’d expect an Asian dish to taste in an American restaurant. That being said, I guess I can’t attest to the authenticity of the Southwestern quesadilla (three pieces per order) due to my limited knowledge of Mexican food, but this small plate was much gutsier. Unlike the wraps, it had real kick, thanks to the poblanos and pepperjack that made up its filling. At under four bucks, I had no complaints about the quesadilla, even if it hardly approximates its below-the-border counterparts.


    Besides the small plates, I also tried the risotto fritters, a Sicilian dish of breaded rice balls typically known as arancini. This $8.95 plate of deep-fried goodness contains everything I love about Italian food (cheese, sausage, and marinara). The best part? They’re gluten-free, along with a whole host of items on the Burtons Grill menu. (For a cheesier version of arancini, go to Via Matta which makes some of the best I’ve had in the city).

    Without a doubt, the showstopper of the evening was the key lime pie. Despite my sweet tooth, I’m generally pie-averse due to my suspicion of all things jelly-like or whipped (which pretty much eliminates 90 percent of pies, when you couple that with my distaste for nuts). So perhaps the reason I liked Burtons Grill’s version of key lime is because it’s quite unpielike. Instead of a traditional crust, a crispy graham cracker shell contains the pie filling, a tart and surprisingly stiff lime mousse. I was so impressed by the robust consistency of the filling that I didn’t even mind the dollop of meringue that topped it all off. (Key word here: “dollop”.) My only complaint is that our server told us each portion of the velvety dessert was individually sized. Perhaps he meant to add “if your appetite rivals that of an ogre”. Portions at this restaurant are generous, so play it safe and order modestly.

    Summary: Stick to American classics when you’re dealing with small plates. If you have friends on gluten-free diets, bring them here and they will thank you for the many extensive options. And leave room for dessert, because if you order it (and you should), expect it to be humungous.

    3 Apr 2009



    Oyster boat from Island Creek Oysters, featuring varieties such as Island Creek (from Duxbury, MA), Katama Bay (Martha’s Vineyard, MA), Ninigret Cup (Charlestown, RI), and Kuushi (British Colombia).

    What not to wear to a foodie free-for-all? A corset approximately two inches smaller than your waist.

    I barely made it through the entire Taste of the Nation benefit last night, which I covered for MenuPages Boston. Three hours into the evening and on my four-inch heels, I was really glad that I’d only manage to have eight oysters and several bowls of a black truffle/potato froth soup concoction. The key is to pace, not push, yourself. Because best case scenario when pushing the limits of your digestive system is food coma, and the worst case? Projectile vomiting. Now that’s no way to get an interview.

    30 Mar 2009

    Leila at MenuPages Boston reports that Davis Square’s Kickass Cupcakes is holding its monthly Cupcake Happy Hour from 5pm-7pm. Stop by to pick up a free mini-cupcakes in flavors like banana daiquiri, screwdriver, and the Sam Adams-infused Green Monster. First-come, first-served!

    Cocktail Cupcake Happy Hours take place on the last Monday of every month.

    Kickass Cupcakes
    Davis Square
    378 Highland Avenue
    Somerville, Massachusetts 02144
    617-628-CUPS

    19 Mar 2009

    Flour Bakery

    I had lunch in the South End at Flour Bakery yesterday. I’ve heard a lot of hype and this was my first visit, so my expectations were high. The menu includes the expected cafe items: various kinds of pastries, presumably good coffee (didn’t try it), and heartier items, like sandwiches, for good measure. A few complaints upfront:

    • There are babies and kids, approximately one per five adults. I can’t hang out in places with a ratio like that.
    • The cashier forgot to ring up our soup. Normally, I wouldn’t mind, but when I asked about it while picking up my order, I was told to return to the register to re-order. There wasn’t a line, but I think the appropriate response would’ve been to just give me a free cup of soup, not to inconvenience the customer because someone made a mistake. (And I didn’t end up getting the soup anyway.)
    • There were scientology pamphlets (disguised with anti-drug slogans) which makes me question the type of people who patronize the establishment.

    Food-wise, I was satisfied but not particularly impressed. I ordered a half-sandwich and a quiche, which made more than sufficient a meal. The roasted chicken and avocado sandwich came with jicama, a crisp vegetable with the texture of a potato and the taste of a spicy apple. It was interesting at best, but not bad. The quiche was much better. Patrick took a granola bar to go (good texture but too sweet) and I grabbed a chocolate mint oreo (completely unmemorable). The most interesting items on display were the homemade pop-tarts, which contain fruit filling between puff pastry — way more sophisticated than the breakfast variety for kids!

    Overall, Flour isn’t a place I’m itching to go back to, if only because I can’t deal with the patrons (more the kids than the potential scientologists). But to be fair, I’d probably change my mind if I lived in the South End. Pop-tarts aside, the breakfast selection looks great, and I’m sure the soup I never got would’ve been tasty, judging from Yelp reviews. Then again, the Yelp reviews endorse jicama. So maybe not.

    Flour Bakery
    595 Washington Street
    Boston, MA 02118
    (617) 267-4300

    Image by Lee Cullivan and used under a Creative Commons license.

    3 Mar 2009

    Match: “Burgers and Martinis”

    My favorite restaurant of the moment is Match. I’ve been there four times in the past six months, and I basically never repeat restaurants, so you know this is good. This restaurant lounge’s schtick is “burgers and martinis” and while I can’t vouch for the booze ($12), Match serves incredible sliders which come in seven varieties like spicy lamb, lobster, and tuna steak ($5-8). I’d describe the menu as American comfort/finger foods, complemented by standbys like onion rings ($3.50) and fries ($2.50). You’re not going to find anything incredibly innovative here, but everything is reliably tasty and despite the burger gimmick, there’s something for everyone, Orthodox Jews and vegetarians alike. For dessert, the pan-seared chocolate chip cookie dough is not to be missed (I’ve manage to replicate it at home , but it’s still my favorite dessert of any Boston restaurant).

    The best part about Match is that it’s extremely affordable, and it’s recent promotion, a “stimulus package”, makes it the most inexpensive night out ever (especially if you’re a lightweight drinker like me). Every Tuesday, Match slashes the price of its mini beef burger from $5 to $1; every Thursday, ladies only pay $5 for entrees, which includes choices like blackened salmon and filet mignon. These specials run from 5-10pm. I suggest a cheap and late dinner followed by plenty of full-price booze. The scene is cool, the people are hot, and it’ll still be way under your typical weekend tab.

    Match waitresses are extremely attractive but slightly incompetent, which would piss me off more if I didn’t dine there with men who appreciate competence. Besides their clearly unmeritocratic hiring practices, Match is as cool as a gimmicky Boston lounge gets. That sounds like I’m not saying much, but it is seriously so hard to find a place like this in Boston.

    A note for the underage: Match cards on weekends and on late nights, but not always at dinner hour. Ask ahead, since the separation between dining room and bar is basically nonexistent.

    Match
    94 Massachusetts Avenue
    Boston, MA 02228
    (617) 247-9922

    27 Feb 2009

    The Achilles Project

    Persephone, which is the restaurant portion of The Achilles Project, shares a loft with a retail store and the lounge that splits them. Contemporary art (or paint splatters, depending on how you look at it) is prominently mounted on the brick surfaces and a DJ plays acceptable music throughout dinner. I’d tell you what the ambience was like but we were 1/3rd of the patrons there, so I’ll withhold judgment.

    Dishes come in small, medium, large, and extra large, which is really all kind of relative. The first category includes bite-sized items like oysters or crab cake. The last features full dinners for two and options like lamb legs. We started off with a platter of oysters (tried each of the four kinds they offered) and an order of scallops from the medium category. The former was fresh and not at all briny as I feared. The scallops (all two of them — how’s that for “medium”?) were accompanied with totally delectable mushrooms. The steak we each ordered for our main came perfectly cooked a medium rare (which is a request I’ve often found ignored by chefs who think they know better than I) No complaints there, besides the slightly overseasoned fries. All other dishes aside, I’d go back for dessert alone. Of the chocolate cake and baklava we ordered, the second was definitely more impressive and memorable.

    I ignore wine and cocktail lists because I can’t drink without getting constipated. (Too much info? Yeah, I know.) However, I can imagine the lounge filled with hip young things in better economic times. There’s a bar right by the DJ, improvisational dance space, and plush seats for public procreation, if that’s your thing. I imagine that if some puritanical Bostonian is feeling really frisky, they can even indulge in late night retail therapy. The store’s open until 9pm, no doubt in hopes that someone will be properly smashed by then and ready to hand over the plastic for local, house, and high-end labels which exemplify clean, contemporary styles and the New England aesthetic.

    The Achilles Project is located across the bridge from South Station, too far from city center to stumble into on a bar crawl (which may explain why it was so empty on a Thursday). But it’s worth the trip to the Waterfront, if only because it’s the closest thing Boston has to “edgy”.

    The Achilles Project
    283 Summer Street
    Boston, MA 02210
    (617) 695-2257

    25 Feb 2009

    Sweet Cupcakes

    My obsession with Sweet Cupcakes is over. Maybe it’s because I’ve recently rediscovered baking (and everything’s better homemade) or maybe the novelty’s faded, but for whatever reason, the charm of Sweet is gone. Despite weekly visits all fall, I haven’t managed to visit since before the holidays. Last week, I went to Sweet with Christine and tried the Mango cupcake, a seasonal offering. I wasn’t impressed.

    Though I’m sure the Red Velvet, Christine’s selection, is still as delicious as ever (who can screw up a classic like that?), many of their limited edition flavors — which rotate every month or so — tend to disappoint. I know I felt that way about some of the autumn flavors. Plus, their cake isn’t as moist as I remember and the frosting is sugar overkill unless you’re the type who snorts pixie sticks like coke. All in all, Sweet is a little too sweet for my taste — but keep in mind that this comes from someone who keeps the fridge stocked with cucpake ingredients at all times. (Plus, I still think Sweet is the best Boston-area option if you’re looking for cupcakes that are both yummy and aesthetic. In my opinion, they’re better than Kickass Cupcakes in Davis.)

    Sweet Cupcakes
    49 Massachusetts Avenue
    Boston, MA 02115
    (617) 247-CAKE

    19 Feb 2009

    Harvard kids, if you haven’t been here yet, try it. The food is great, the wifi is free, and the cafe is cozy. It’s been open less than a year. The Square needs more places like this!

    Petsi Pies
    31 Putnam Ave
    Cambridge, MA 02139
    (617) 499-0801

    1 Dec 2008

    Brow Waxing in Harvard Square

    Stopped by Pure Line this morning for a very, very overdue eyebrow waxing (seriously my first since the spring — yikes!). It’s my favorite place in Harvard Square, and I’ve had my hair ripped off my face by a lot of people. Natasha, the esthetician, takes her time waxing, plucking, and trimming your brows to perfection. It won’t feel like a rush job. Plus, at $18, it’s one of the most affordable places in the Square.

    Pure Line
    56 JFK St (2nd Floor)
    Cambridge, MA 02138
    (617) 868-7873